Frigidaire Gas Dryer Issues

[DougY]

Hi,

I hooked up our 3 years old gas dryer after sitting in storage for 2+ years.

When I ran it (for testing), the drum is rolling, however, there is a smell of gas (quite strong) and (no surprise here) no heat. I turned it off, rechecked all of the pipes leading into the dryer (all connections are sealed, no leaks)... I opened the small access door in the back, but it is in the side opposite to the gas line entry, and I don't exactly know what to look for...

Any words of wisdom?

Thanks,

Doug

[DIY Guy]

Since the problem isn't your gas line connections, and I presume you only smell gas when the dryer is on, then the problem may be a faulty igniter. If you smell gas for a short time then it dissapates, I'd say the igniter is the problem. However, letting it run while it is leaking gas is dangerous and you shouldn't test it that way.

[DougY]

Thanks for the reply.

Can 'mere mortals' fix igniters, or only professional service can do it?

I don’t want to run is again, especially when I don’t know what to look for inside...I guess I answered my own question... either call a service, or buy a new one (depends on the cost of the service)...

EDIT: Can I test the igniter without having the gas connected to the dryer?

Thanks again for the prompt reply.

Doug

[DIY Guy]

Igniters are pretty easy to install on dryers made in the last 15 or so years.

Most gas dryers have an access hatch on the front. Tat hatch gives visual access to the ignitor et al. However, it may not provide physical access, for that you may have to open the cabinet. See our site for instructions on testing & repair.

[DougY]

Thanks for the info... I'll go and take this dryer apart now... :)

Doug

[DougY]

OK... open the front "wall" of the dryer (quite easy when you look for "secret" latches), and able to see all of the gas line components. Nothing seems out of place (to my un-trained eyes). I took out the ignitor and tested with a multitester (per instructions in “How to Check the Ignitor”)… it show resistance of ~65. I am hesitant to run the dryer to test the ignitor, because the drum is not supported by the front “wall” and it will probably damage something if I’ll turn it on.

Although there are no external signs of damage, I wonder if the dryer may have been “bumped” in the move (we had a few things with damage) couple of years ago and something got loose or broken.

Are there fuse(s) inside that I should look for? Can it/they be the reason for a gas flow without an ignition?

Thanks,

Doug

[DIY Guy]

No the designers would never fuse part of the controls and leave the gas to flow, they would fuse the entire subsystem. The fuses typically control electric dryer heating circuits. Any other fuse would like affect the entire dryer's electrical system.

The flame sensor is supposed to cut off the gas if it does not sense the heat of a flame. However, it sounds like the ignitor isn't working either so I wonder if you have tested the wiring for continuity?

Regarding the ignitor, it makes a clicking sound when it sparks. Do you hear it when the heat tries to start up?

[DougY]

I tested the ignitor with a multitester . I set the ohms to 1 and it read ~ 60.

I think I have a glowing ignitor, (this is the one: http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=1036069 (http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=1036069))

I am hesitant to turn the dryer on when the front panel (full panel, not an access panel) is off, because it supports the drum (with the panel removed, the drum sags a bit and touched other parts within the dryer). Am I missing something on how to run the dryer and visually inspect the ignitor and the gas components? The small access panel is in the back and on the opposite side of the gas components, so I cannot view the gas components.

Any information you can provide on how to further test the ignitor or identify any other faulty part will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Doug

[MN Arctic]

Fairly simple appliance. The dryer calls for heat, the gas valve opens, the igniter tries to ignite, and the burning flame heats a sensor to keep the gas flowing. If it doesn't ignite, it cycles through the process again.

You should be able to hear the clicking of the gas valve opening and the igniter lighting up(glowing). There also is a high capacitor limit switch that if the heat gets to high, it trips the capacitor to shut off the gas. This is typically located on the side of the heating tube. FOR TESTING PURPOSE ONLY, unhook the exhaust vent, it may be plugged or kinked. This will also allow you to look in from the back side to see the igniter glow. Make sure you have plenty of ventilation because of Co2.

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