Maytag washer won't spin

[theripster]

Maytag washer won't spin. Model number LAT9206BAE.

It agitates fine, and pumps fine, but will not spin. Should I be looking at the brake assy or should I be looking inside the transmission? :confused:

As always, thanks in advance for the invaluable info from all of you.

[woodchuck]

The easiest to check and fix would be the lid switch so here is a LINK (http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/washer/check/lidswitch.php) to help you check it out first.

[theripster]

[QUOTE=woodchuck]The easiest to check and fix would be the lid switch so here is a LINK (http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/washer/check/lidswitch.php) to help you check it out first.[/QUOTE]

This lid switch is confusing. It has 4 terminals.
1. neut, 2.line 3.motor, 4.machine

I have continuity between line and machine at all times.
I have continuity between line and motor when lid switch is depressed.
I have no continuity between neutral and anything at any time.

When it should be spinning the water pumps out and the motor continues to run but the basket does not move. Eventually the belt gets so hot it starts to smoke.

[woodchuck]

Belt loose or maybe tub is stuck by clothes between outer and inner tub or how does it turn if you move it by hand. Sounding more like your original thought transmission or does it have a centrifugal clutch. Idler pulley.

[theripster]

[QUOTE=woodchuck]Belt loose or maybe tub is stuck by clothes between outer and inner tub or how does it turn if you move it by hand. Sounding more like your original thought transmission or does it have a centrifugal clutch. Idler pulley.[/QUOTE]

It doesn't want to turn by hand either. It will turn ever so slightly, but the outer tub turns that amount with it. No idler pulley. One belt for pump and one belt for transmission. Shouldn't the transmission be turning too?

[woodchuck]

Here's a couple of things I saw doing a search on your machine.Hope it will help.



Your machine achieves the spin cycle by reversing the motor direction. This is done by contacts within the timer. For your machine to only agitate means that the timer contacts must be stuck in the agitate mode. Unfortunately, timers cannot be repaired and must be replaced.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

* The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


* The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


* A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


* The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


* The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


* The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


* The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

[theripster]

I have posted statements after each thing to check in your block of possabilities. If my motor has to reverse direction to spin, then it would be reversed for the pump also. How is it able to pump the water out which it does during the spin cycle?

[QUOTE=woodchuck]Here's a couple of things I saw doing a search on your machine.Hope it will help.

Your machine achieves the spin cycle by reversing the motor direction. This is done by contacts within the timer. For your machine to only agitate means that the timer contacts must be stuck in the agitate mode. Unfortunately, timers cannot be repaired and must be replaced.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

* The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

I checked the lid switch and it seems as if it is working properly.

* The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.

It does not have a motor coupler.


* A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

The belt is not broken, but it is getting hot because the motor is still turning and the drum is not.


* The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

It is not a GE it is a Maytag.


* The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

It has a seperate belt for the pump, which circulates water the whole time, and pumps the water out during the spin cycle even though the drum is not spinning.


* The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


* The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

This looks like it might be the right answer since it did make a loud noise for a short period of time when it should have been spinning. I am definitely mechanically inclined enough to tackle the repair, and so thats what I'll try. I'll post my results. thanks so much. :)[/QUOTE]