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Piro
01-28-2008, 11:43 AM
Hi pals;
I have a W.I.C. washer model MWX433RW2 built in 1998. It was operating good until 3 days ago,it was stoping operation after the wash cycle.I shorted the two wires going to the lid switch and is now working good since 2 days ago. My question; This switch has 2 operating levers but only 2 wires going to it;how this switch operate mechanically? If I continue operating it like this:will it may damage others components in the unit? {except the operator protective action of stoping the unit if the lid is opened up while spining].
All replies are wellcome.
Thanks Piro

RegUS_PatOff
01-28-2008, 02:09 PM
the schematic is very blurry
WIRING DIAGRAM (http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0153200&brandID=3050&modelDesc=WASHER%20-%205995285052&modelNumber=MWX433RED0&documentID=Y2703439&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PV&titleType=WIRING%20DIAGRAM&titleID=00006)

The lid switch/lock seems to have a coil inside to energize the lock lever when the switch is closed and current is flowing through (it and) the pump during the spin cycle..

It should be OK to jumper the bad switch.

I may have a better schematic of a similar model.

The (newer) replacement switch/lock has (edit) 6 connections part# 3205646 $46

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=916791

Piro
01-29-2008, 03:06 AM
Thanks to you for your fast reply.The bad switch I have is P\N 131675600.I opened it and found no coils inside but it have 3 sets of contacts,two of them are operated in tandem by the metallic lock lever and last one is operated by the long plastic lever controlled by the door plunger.The problem is that the lock lever does not operates and the contacts seem to be in series with the lid contacts.As there are only two wires going to the swicth,I am planning to bypass the lock contacts inside the switch and leave the unit operating with the lid contacts. What do you advise?
Thanks again; Piro