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DAC21
02-01-2008, 07:42 PM
I Have model 110.76722692. Three weeks ago the heat got sporatic, then finally didn't come on at all. The igniter was working, so I replaced the coils.
All was well for a week, now again no heat and now no igniter coming on.

I already have a new igniter on the way, but that may well not be it. If I replace both thermostates and the fuse, should that cover it?

RegUS_PatOff
02-01-2008, 08:30 PM
Is the dryer vent clean ?

Is there good air-flow at the vent exit on the OUTSIDE of the house ?

Try it with the vent disconnected... is there good air flow ?

It may have overheated and tripped one of the resettable high-limits, and finally tripped one of the non-resettable high limit fuses.

Can you measure the resistance of the igniter ?

mikenew
02-02-2008, 01:59 PM
Good advice also if you take the plug apart at your igniter put meter leads in the plug set it to ac volts and start the unit the voltage reading will tell you if the igniter is getting voltage, if it is getting voltage then when you replace the igniter with the new one your getting make sure not to touch the element with our hands the oil from your skin can cause a hot spot on a hot surface igniter also be careful not to put any pressure on the element they are brittle and a crack will cause a failure

DAC21
02-02-2008, 04:34 PM
[QUOTE=RegUS_PatOff]Is the dryer vent clean ?

Is there good air-flow at the vent exit on the OUTSIDE of the house ?

Try it with the vent disconnected... is there good air flow ?

It may have overheated and tripped one of the resettable high-limits, and finally tripped one of the non-resettable high limit fuses.

Can you measure the resistance of the igniter ?[/QUOTE]


Well it isn't the igniter as that came today, Odd that it worked for a week (about three dryer loads) then goes out again. Ordered a fuse, thermostate and flame sensor, not much left that I know of. I'll check that the ventalation is clear when I get those parts in.

The exhaust vent between the dryer and wall is longer than I would like, but it's been that way for ten years, it's not pinched from the work that I did last week. If the igniter isn't getting current...Fuse issue, Thermo. issue?

Thanks for your guys suggetions.

RegUS_PatOff
02-02-2008, 04:46 PM
[QUOTE=DAC21]The exhaust vent between the dryer and wall is longer than I would like, but it's been that way for ten years, it's not pinched from the work that I did last week. Odd.

Thanks for your guys suggetions.[/QUOTE]and it's clean ? and the blower is working sufficiently ?
you could save some money if you had a multi-meter (link $2.99) (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90899) and did a few tests.

DAC21
02-02-2008, 05:38 PM
[QUOTE=RegUS_PatOff]and it's clean ? and the blower is working sufficiently ?
you could save some money if you had a multi-meter (link $2.99) (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90899) and did a few tests.[/QUOTE]


Checked the exhaust duct to the wall, seems just a bit dusty, no build up. Blower out put directly from the dryer is good. Checked the outside exhaust, good flow. I'll be going over to my buddies tomorrow for the SB, I'll borrow his nice Fluke meter. Between the Thromostat, Fuse and flame sensor I hope I have it, regardless I'll just change them all out and hang onto whatever is still good. Does the motor have any kind out output device which can be causing this?

RegUS_PatOff
02-02-2008, 08:43 PM
The centrifugal switch in the motor only keeps the current flowing after the start switch is released (in parallel with the start switch).