Icemaker repair

[galbicka]

I have a Frigidaire side by side model FRS26ZRFD2 ser LA72904078 with in door water and ice which has quit making ice. I have used the troubleshooter here to narrow down the problem. The ice maker passes all tests as does the water inlet valve. However checking voltage at the dual inlet valve I get 120 volts when the water dispenser is activated but only 107 volts on the ice maker. My guess is that is not enough to actuate the solenoid. It hums but does not open. The dispenser line will open both solenoids on the valve fine. The ice maker line will open neither. What would be in line outside of the ice maker that could reduce the voltage if this is the problem?

[RegUS_PatOff]

this may be a similar wiring diagram

FRS26ZRGWC Wiring Diagram (ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Anderson/218909401.pdf)

It looks like the I/M water valve goes through the AUTO ICEMAKER reference on the diagram. I don't know what's all in there.

It looks like you could swap the power connections & the water lines at the inlet vales to test them.

[galbicka]

I have swapped the power and water lines at the inlet valve to test. Water dispenser power measures 120 volts and will open both valves and water flows through both lines. Ice maker power measures 107 volts and won't open either valve. They just hum during 6 second cycle.

[galbicka]

I read in another post to manually fill the tray and tried that to see if it made a difference and it did. Water flowed as the ice ejected. My guess is if the mold heater doesn't fire because there is no ice in the tray then the inlet valve doesn't get the right voltage to open. Does this make sense to anyone. Right now it looks like I just have to increase the timer to get the right water level and I am back in business.