Everything but heat

[Mitriton]

Hello All,
I'm new to this site, and I'm hoping someone can help me before I dish out for a new dryer. I know nothing other than what I've learned reading this site.Here goes. I have a Whirlpool electric heater (model#LE5800XSW3) that seems to be doing everything but giving out heat. I placed a multitester to check for continuity on the thermo-capassitor (I think that's what it's called) and got continuity. Same on all the relays I found, and on the heat element itself. I tried different setting on the cycle dial, heat range dial, and made sure lint buildup wasn't an issue. :eek: I also tried bypassing the relays by disconnecting them and running a wire line from lead to lead. The blower works, as does the durm turning. I just don't know where to go from here. Please, a little help would be appreciated greatly, thanks-Pat.

[RegUS_PatOff]

check thermal overload devices # 6, #7, #8, #15 for continuity (OHMS)

http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Whirlpool/1B8SLBUF.gif

[Mitriton]

I checked for continuity on all the parts you indicated, and got continuity on all except a two prone part on the top left side (as you look at it from the rear) of the heat element housing. That showed an ohm reading of 8k. Could that be too much resistance for that part? Thanks for the reply -Pat.

[RegUS_PatOff]

# 8 ?
click on picture
http://www.repairclinic.com/dbImages/00000689/00208690.jpg (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2986)

[Mitriton]

RegUS,
Thanks again for the help. Yes I checked the Thermo fuse for continuity and it does have good continuity, so I guess it's still ok. The only part that doesn't show total continuity is the small two proned part at the top/left side of the heat element housing. It's part # 3389946. It reads 8k on the ohm meter. Is that a good reading for that part. All other parts you indicated show good continuity.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Ohh... yes, #7, there it is !

correction: #7 opened up (one time fuse) because # 15 thermostat didn't do it's job (bad)

that's why they sell them together as a kit.

Heating element thermal cut-off (thermal fuse) 360 degrees and high-limit thermostat 250 degrees.

click on picture
http://www.repairclinic.com/dbImages/00000687/00207993.jpg (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2821)

[Mitriton]

Ok, I can find the part#3390291, it's at the bottom of the heating element housing, but I can't find the other part with the orange strip(#3977394, I think that's the number). The other part at the top of the housing(same side) doesn't look like the part with the orange strip in the photo. Are both of these componets on the heating element housing?

[RegUS_PatOff]

#15 (bottom of housing) is the RED one marked 121.1 °C

#7 is the other one (top of housing) may be marked 360 °F or 182.2 °C

here is another picture of #7 and # 15 (RED)

http://www.partselect.com/assets/partimages/334278_3_M.jpg

[Mitriton]

RegUS,
The "red" number 15 looks the same as what I have, but the #7 (your photo part) looks different than the one on my machine.It may not matter, the part that the wire leads go to looks the same, but the flat housing that attaches it to the heat element housing has two screws and it's shaped a little different than the #7 in your photo, and the numbers and print on it look like this:
INTIOL-0954
PART NO.
3389946
L350 F
It's in that order, and on the opposite side of the prone part (that the wires attach too) it's stamped 8929. If the one in your photo will work anyway that'll be great. I really appreciate your help on this - Pat

[RegUS_PatOff]

part # 3389946 cross references to the pictured one... 360°F

L350 = 350°F

that's the HI-LIMIT safety fuse temperarture

that will work OK, as long as it mounts OK

[Mitriton]

I can make the #7 work, even if I have to drill a hole where the other screw goes through. And I guess I need a #6 thermostat that made the #7 open and go bad, right? So from what I understand, I'll need a #6, #7, and #15 to get the dryer to dry again. Do you know where I would go to purchase these items, and what the total cost might be? Again, thanks a million.

[RegUS_PatOff]

sorry, I made a correction... # 7 (fuse) went bad because of a bad # 15.

you shouldn't need # 6

shown together as a kit in the small photo in one of my first messages...

click on that picture and it will link you to the kit.

[Mitriton]

Thanks RegUS,
I ordered the parts you indicated, and will let you know if it fixed my problem. Thanks again for your time and information. This is a great site, I'm glad I found it. It looks like it'll be 8 days or so before delivery on the parts, I'll be back - Pat.