IceMaker: No Water Pumping

[Esep]

Hello,
I have an 8 yr old Frigidaire and have never had problems with my icemaker until now. My tap water feature has been gone for awhile, so I can't check if the valves are working in that respect. The icemaker is cycling through the whole process of making ice because I poured some water onto the mold and it worked, but no water is pumping onto the ice mold. I've checked the ohms reading on the valves and seem to be normal, around 350 ohms. I checked all the microswitches on the icemaker and passed all ohm requirements per this site. In addition, I change the water filter because it had been awhile since it was changed, but still no water. I suspect it may be the mechanical side of one of the water valves or both, but don't know how to check if they are actually pumping water or not. Any idea what problem I may be experiencing.

Regards
Esep

[DIY Guy]

I is nearly a certainty that the valve has failed mechanically. I suspect replacing the water inlet valve will restore the ice and water functions.

Search for Appliance Parts (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=214&P=69)

[Esep]

Which one? There is the inlet valve that connects the main water line and the one that distributes it to the water dispenser and ice water. Any idea which one I should start first? Thanks for the quick response.

regards

[DIY Guy]

I'm not sure what you are describing.

Ordinarily your home's water supply connects to the water inlet valve located at the lower rear of your fridge. From there, two hoses exit and run to your ice maker and to your through the door water. Furthermore, that inlet valve is typically all one piece. So even if only one side went out, you'd replace the whole thing.

If you have something different than this, please describe it in detail so that I can provide further assistance.

[Esep]

Besides the Water Inlet Valve, there is also a Valve -Water filter, Dual Solenoid that looks identically like the Inlet valve. The icemaker hose passes through this valve before it goes to the icemaker. I guess water goes through the Inlet Valve, then goes to the water filter, then goes to this valve before it is pumped onto the icemaker and water dispenser. So I am debating which valve I should start replacing.

regards

[DIY Guy]

It really doesn't make sense for both to be an actual valve. If you think about it, the valve is just a gate and you can make the water stop and go with just one gate. The designers could put the gate before or after any device they chose and the water would stop and go just fine. A second gate wouldn't serve any purpose I can think of and just adds expense to the design.

Are there electrical wires going to both valves? Does each valve have three or four hoses connected? Because the one I'd be looking for is the one with one hose in and two hoses out. If those two hoses out go through yet another device, are you really sure it is a valve and not just a filter or maybe a defroster to keep the line from freezing?

[Esep]

Hi again,
I was able to draw a diagram of how the water hoses run. Let me see if I can explain. Starting at the inlet water valve, each solenoid has a hose coming out which connect into a "Y" making it one hose. This single hose goes to the water filter, then comes out of the water filter and into this Water Filter Valve (as it is called by the manual). Two hoses come out of the filter valve, one goes to the icemaker, the other goes to the water tank, then the hose comes out of the water tank and into the water dispenser.

Yes, the electrical wires goes to both valves. As I mentioned before, both valves are identical electrically and mechanically. The only difference, the main valve has the outlet for the water hose coming from the sink and the filter valve has the fittings for the 1/4" hose coming from the filter. I suspect both valves are gone since my water dispenser quit working about 3 years ago. But never did try to troubleshoot since I didn't know this great site existed for helping out. I may now be able to have filtered water again instead of buying it. Thank you so much for your assistance. I am wondering how much money I should be spending on this 8 yr old refrigerator since it is going downhill. But nevertheless, the experience I am getting in doing my own repairs is great for future needs.

Regards
esep

[DIY Guy]

Thanks for elaborating. I am still trying to figure out why te manufacturer would employ a dual valve only to join the hoses back together in a "Y" on the other side. It just doesn't make any sense to me.

But...I do have an idea. Disconnect the outbound water line after the first valve and insert it into a cup. Now trigger the water throught he door. Anything. Now trigger the icemaker, or if you don't know how, then wait for it to cycle. Anything? If no water, then, assuming it isn't an electrical problem elsewhere, this valve is apparently faulty.

If you do get water, then replace the second valve.

[Esep]

Well, since I replaced the new filter a few days ago, it hasn't even gotten wet, so for sure, there has been no water coming out of the water inlet during the icemaker cycles. At first, I thought the hose may have been frozen up at the filter entrance since there was icing in the ventilation, but I removed the filter housing and was able to verify there is only a few drops in the water line. So after checking all my icemaker microswitches and if there isn't any other switches that would prevent the water inlet from pumping water to the filter, what other switches would there be to check before moving on to replacing the main water inlet? I suspect my other valve may be gone as well since my water dispenser doesn't work either.

My suspicious for the second valve is probably to control the level of the water tank. But they could also have done it from the first valve. Maybe one valve wasn't enough power to send it through the complete course and decided to add a helping hand in the middle. Best I can think of.


esep

[DIY Guy]

Well it sounds like you are just going to have to replace that first valve. Since you got no water to the filter, which comes before the secondvalve, then it would appear that the first valve has failed.

All the controls are in the ice maker. If those switches tested okay, and the units cycles (without making any ice) then it comes down to a broken wire, bad connection or the valve. You can do a simple continuity test on the wires to verify that current can flow. You may need the schematic to do this, but in general you can just match the colors. Be sure to unplug the fridge first.

[Esep]

To do a continuity test on the wires going to the valve, do I just place a prong on each wire on the connector to close the circuit? Should the ohmeter read infinity or "zero" out? I do have a schematic, but it's very hard to read since it's a PDF print out. thanks.

[DIY Guy]

To do a continuity test, lets say you have a brown wire coming off the fill switch. Place one of the probes from your meter or continuity tester on that wire.

Now down at the water inlet you will find the other end of the brown wire. Disconnect it from the valve and place the other probe on that end of the wire. If it lights up, then you have continuity.

Since it probably won't reach that distance, you will have to use an extension wire. Lamp cord, a spare piece of romex, maybe even an unfolded coat hanger will do. Just connect the extension to the probe and then touch the extension wire to the brown wire.

This should be done with the fridge unplugged.