View Full Version : Dryer not getting hot enough

09-25-2005, 02:32 PM
Greetings to all,
I am new here and need some advise, I have a Whirlpool electric dryer Model # LER4634BQ1, it is not getting as hot as it used to, I have checked the lint chute and removed a pile of lint from it, reassembled and it still does not get as hot as it used to, the element seems to be working, I placed a household thermometer to the discharge pipe and it read above 120F, so the element is working, what else could the trouble be.
I will appreciate any an all responses.

09-27-2005, 02:35 PM
There can be a build of lint that you can't access just from the lint trap. You need to remove lint from the entiure vent line and from under the dryer. That is the most common cause of what you describe.

09-27-2005, 03:16 PM
Could be a number of things. Here's how a dryer works during an automatic cycle:

* The cycling thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--at least 135 degrees.
* When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
* The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
* This cycle continues until the clothes are dry.

If the vent system is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork. A dead ringer for this problem is if you see that the timer is advancing but is doing so too slowly or stops mid-cycle and doesn't go any further. It normally takes from 45 minutes to an hour to dry a load of clothes on the automatic cycle. Sounds like you already cleaned the lint system, so let's go on.

Check and make sure the vent duct hose is not restricted in some way. A dryer only dries as fast as air can flow through it, even if the heating element works. O.k., next...

You could have a bad cycling thermostat. A dryer usually has two thermostats. One of them is mounted to the internal duct system by two screws and has two wires. THIS is the cycling thermostat. One of the wires goes to the timer to tell it when to advance, and the other wire goes to the other thermostat (the high-limit thermostat), which is mounted to the heating element housing, to tell it when to cut the element on or off. If the high-limit thermostat is bad, then the heating element will usually either not come on at all or will stay on all the time and overheat, which may throw a thermal fuse if your model has one. (A bad cycling thermostat can also cause overheating.) On some dryer models, the dryer will not come on at all once a thermal fuse has blown. The high-limit thermostat or thermal fuse do not seem to be your problem, though, since you say the element is working.

The Cycling Thermostat can be tested with a multimeter, or you can just replace it in most instances for $18.00 to $30.00, depending on your dryer model. BEFORE TESTING THE THERMOSTAT, UNPLUG THE DRYER!! To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

Hope this helps. It's not as complicated as it sounds.

09-27-2005, 10:57 PM
I believe that I have cleaned the lint system, I removed the back of the dryer and pulled the entire lint chute from it, cleaned it out from top to bottom also any lint I saw around and under dryer with the vacuum cleaner.
So how would I go about testing the cycling thermostat at maximum temperature, can't use a continuity check when the dryer is in operation, can I ?, so how can I get the thermostat to maximum temperature without the dryer running?

Where I live, if you buy an electrical component and that turns out not to be your problem, they will not take it back, you just got two of them, whether you need them of not.

I do appreciate you taking the time to attempt to help me with my problem, I may be required to purchase a cycling thermostat and try it just to see if that is the problem.

09-29-2005, 06:21 PM
You can warm a thermostat in the oven.

Note that ovens temperature varies by about 40 degrees or so, because it just cycles on and off and doesn't stay at a single temp.

So your test won't be precise. However, you can use an accurate oven thermometer to gauge the temp.