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codephantom1138
03-30-2006, 09:14 PM
I have a problem with exterior lighting in a multi unit building. There are 12 overhead lights, each w/ 2x 13w compact fluorescent bulbs, and 6 wall mounted 7-13w compact fluorescent sconce type fixtures. The Breaker panel trips out after about 10-30 minutes of being reset, leaving my residents with dark hallways at night. The lighting is controlled by a photosensor which is wired into the circuit box, which is attached to the bldg. itself.. My question is: If I go to replace only the photosensor will it likely keep the breaker from tripping? I do not want to call an electrician if I can avoid it, the cost is too high and replacing the photosensor is not difficult. I just don't want to buy a new sensor if that won't solve my issue.

kok328
03-31-2006, 03:25 PM
You didn't mention how many amps the breaker that is tripping is rated at.

You may also have something other than just lighting on the circuit.
This would usually be 277V circuits.
You may have a fixture going bad or you may have a breaker going bad or you might be using too small a breaker.
Changing the photo eye won't likely fix the problem unless of course the photo eye is the culprit.
However, add the cost of the photo eye to the repair bill if it isn't the problem is small potatoes and provides for change parts :)

codephantom1138
03-31-2006, 09:35 PM
You didn't mention how many amps the breaker that is tripping is rated at.

You may also have something other than just lighting on the circuit.
This would usually be 277V circuits.

I am not sure how many amps the breaker is rated for, It had been working fine until about a week ago, and To the best of my knowledge, it is only the source of power for the fixtures I listed earlier. The Breaker is a 4 switch type, with 2 outside switches that are connected by a piece of metal. These 2 switches operate lighting at the carports near the building. They emit a loud buzzing sound and will not operate at all, nor will they stay untripped for more than about 2 seconds. I have stopped trying to reset those due to my fear of electrical fire/bigger problems, and WILL be contacting a licensed electrician to perform needed repairs. The 2 switches centered between the connected ones ( These are the ones I wrote about in the earlier post /these second 2 are not connected but are listed on the inside panel to control my out lights) are the 2 that won't stay in the on position for more than 30 minutes. I am now of the mind as you said in your reply that the photo eye is not what is causing the problem, but that leads me with little ideas left to go from. Do you or anyone else know how many amps are for that circuit from my description? I wish I could submit a drawing to the forum to better show it...

kok328
04-01-2006, 04:13 AM
"They emit a loud buzzing sound and will not operate at all"


Are you referring to the breaker or the light. If your referring to the light fixture, it sounds like the ballast has gone bad.
You can find the amperage rating for the breaker right on the breaker tab that you flip to reset the breaker (most likely 20 amps).
This can all be verified by disconnecting the buzzing light fixture from the circuit and reset your breaker. If it holds, bingo, you've isolated the problem, if it doesn't hold, replace the breaker or drop more fixtures from the circuit until it does hold. We're not looking at too many fixtures, we're looking for a bad fixture causing a high amperage load.

Best of luck!

codephantom1138
04-02-2006, 12:42 AM
The buzzing sound I was referring to was from the breaker switches, and not the light fixtures. The fixtures are all good as far as I can tell. I haven't had a chance to check the amp ratings but will as soon as possible. I believe it to be needing a new breaker, I just am unsure of what I should have to expect in terms of cost to fix and if that will solve the problem completely.
Thanks for your input though, it should help me be able to explain better to an electrician when the repairs are being estimated/done. Would you happen to know a ballpark figure on replacing a breaker of this type?
I'm still not sure if it is low/hi voltage, I believe it to be under 240v, but don't know how to check that. There didn't seem to be anything to indicate it on the breaker panel. The breaker is of the 4 switch variety 2 inner unconnected switches, 2 outer connected (by a thin piece of metal)switches.
Thanks again!

kok328
04-02-2006, 09:54 AM
[color=lime]Not to offend you[/color] but, it sounds like perhaps you would be better off farming this one out; your safety is the primary concern here.

[color=wheat]Yes, you need a new breaker if it is buzzing.[/color]

[color=#f5deb3]You may need a different amp breaker if it is buzzing.[/color]
[color=#f5deb3]You need to determine the voltage of this circuit (again, commercial lighting is usually 277V (single phase)).[/color]
[color=#f5deb3]To do this you will need to remove the panel cover and apply a multi-meter between the breaker lug and the neutural bar.[/color]
[color=#f5deb3]You need to also determine the amount of current flowing on this circuit.[/color]
[color=#f5deb3]This will allow you to know if your breaker is properly rated or if you have too many fixture on the circuit.[/color]
[color=#f5deb3]If I'm understanding the breaker correctly it is a space saver breaker that allows 4 circuits off one breaker slot. This may be challenging to find a replacement. It also depends on the mount style of the breaker. If it is a bolt down, you'd be wise to shut off the main before replacing. If it is the snap in, you can do it without taking down the whole panel.[/color]
[color=#f5deb3][/color]
[color=#f5deb3]Cost for a licensed electrician to perform these repairs will vary by location but, on average you'd be looking at $200 - 300.00.[/color]